Q Barrier Floor Mounted

We designed this Floor Mounted version of our 'full height' stanchion system for more permanent installations. It is ideally suited to directing the flow of visitors at entrances to exhibits, for ticketing or where there is a requirement for people to wait. It is both a physical and visual message dictating accessibility and ensuring that queuing is an orderly and defined process.

The stanchion post screws into a floor socket providing a rigid installation to support our discreet elastic cord, that replaces those dreadful droopy ropes. Simple, effective, and suited to more static layouts.

The proportions and detailing have been designed to complement museum and gallery environments with clean lines and neutral finishes.

There is a range of signage options that will attach easily and securely to the stanchion to assist with informing and directing visitors.


Q Barrier Floor-mounted stone - SS

Please contact Eloise Wierzbicki for the best price.


You will of course require elasticated cord to go with your stanchion layout.

A range of signage options are available to work with your Q Barrier.


We recommend up to 8" as the ideal spacing between stanchions, but because these are a rigid fixing this can be increased to 10'.

For the best finish it is important that the cord maintains a level and straight line between stanchions.

The floor socket is supplied complete with a countersunk bolt to fill the hole and provide a flush finish if the post is removed at any point.


  1. Mark out the position of the sockets. Normal spacing is 8'-10' between posts. It is important to ensure that the tension on the cord is sufficient to maintain a straight and level line.
  2. Drill holes of approx’ 1 1/8" dia’ by approx’ 3 1/2" deep and clear the hole of any dust or debris.
  3. Screw each upright firmly to it’s socket.
    It is essential to install the sockets with the uprights in place (see note A below) to ensure that the cord slots at the top of the post are correctly aligned. If you are planning to use signage, then have this in place to check alignment.
  4. Apply an epoxy resin to the bottom and sides of the hole.
  5. Place the socket into the hole and ‘bed down’ using a small rotational motion to assist the movement of the resin.
  6. Check that the upright it is absolutely vertical, and where necessary support in this position whilst the resin cures. Double check that the cords slots are in alignment.
  7. When you have the desired layout, unscrew the top cap until there is a gap large enough to insert the cord. Use a small Allen key or screwdriver in the hole on the side of the cap if additional grip is needed.
  8. Insert the end of the cord into the space under the cap and wrap the cord around the stem once or twice and out through one of the slots. Hold the cord in place and screw the cap down.
  9. For intermediate stanchions, pull the cord tight to the next stanchion with enough tension to make a straight line and feed the cord in through one slot, around the cap stem and out through the appropriate slot. Straight through for a line of stanchions and ninety degrees at a corner.
  10. Repeat step 7 for the last stanchion.
  11. When the layout is complete, tighten all caps to prevent them from being unscrewed.

A) Please note, the underside of the upright and top face of each socket has been numbered to enable the uprights to be removed and replaced in the correct socket.

B) The socket is supplied complete with a countersunk M8 bolt. Keep these safe and use them to fill the hole in the socket whenever the uprights are removed.